Monday, November 28, 2011

We Finally Made it to London!

Hello errbody. Mike here. So we woke up at 5:30 in York to pack our 12 bags of luggage into as few bags as possible. Turns out, we only made it down to eight bags. It was pretty easy once we decided to leave about 32 pounds of kids' clothes inconspicuously tucked between the beds in our hotel room. Yes, that's right. We left behind clothes for somebody else to deal with. 

Thirty-two pounds lighter, we headed off to the York train station. The cab driver who drove us from the train station to our hotel said, "This is the worst weekend you could possibly come to York because of the Christmas fayre and crowds." I brought this up to the cabbie who picked us up at the hotel and most of the conversation with him from the hotel to the train station revolved around how each cabbie has their own strategy to avoid the crowds--either from the Christmas fayre or York's famous horse races.

We arrived at the station. Or as the cabbie put it as he pulled into the station, "And here we are at the nightmare that is York train station." Cabbies don't work for the tourism association, I guess. 

Not too busy, but lugging eight giant bags of luggage around sort of makes you feel
like a freak of nature, even if you do have a family of three trailing behind you.


Merrit and Ollie are always completely unaware of the chaos and stress around them.
Here they chase each other around a pole while I get breakfast for all of us at
Burger King.

Fed and on the train now...
Ollie in his happy place: He only wanted to listen to the
White Stripes. I tried Bob Marley and the Beastie Boys.
But he had to have his "Seven Nation Army."

Merrit geeks out on Star Wars Legos.
So proud...


Yes we look like the European travelers in an Asti Spumante commercial.
Who would know that we are the parents of two boys--one of who was, just at this moment,
eating scraps found on the floor of the train while the other one continued to hit himself
in the head for no reason.

This was educational for me. Jack White, playing soulful rock and roll blues with a
steady R&B beat, puts Ollie into a blissful slumber.

Our train got to London at about 12:30. We pushed our eight bags into a cab, which
dropped us off here: The Wellington Hotel, our abode for the next three days in London.
The cage doors and aluminum safety panels were an extra feature that I wasn't expecting.
Also, didn't know ahead of time that the Waterloo subway station was literally across the
street from our hotel. 

I was really surprised by the interior of the hotel. Very classy and warm, like the
best English pubs that I've come to know. My favorite part was the painting on the
ceiling of the Battle of Waterloo, showing the tired and haggard but still
resilient and dogged British on the left and the cowardly, retreating, defeated French
on the right. 

Our room wouldn't be ready for another 45 minutes, so we took the opportunity
to hang back in the gracious bar/lounge area.

I really must say how impressed I was with the bar and lounge area. Classic art,
beautiful lighting, wood paneling, wood floors, classic English pubbery. (Yeah,
I just made up that word.)

Our room is now ready! And I get the opportunity to carry
eight bags, which weigh approximately 900 pounds each, up
three flights of stairs to room #23.

Winded and unimpressed after the second of three trips.

Trying to settle into our new room, we find that it has no heat. The thermostat
on one of the radiators is broken clean off, but is sitting neatly on the floor next
to the radiator as if to say, "We recognize that there isn't any heat in this room, but
as you can see from this porcelain artifact, we are fully aware of this--but believe
the charm of this room will suffice." Wrong.

I reached for the phone to call the front desk. Oh, there is no phone.

We also found out that there was no Internet, which makes me wonder what our
Hungarian, Polish, and Russian staff in the lobby really mean when they say "Free Wi-Fi."

Also, when you look in the bedside table drawer and find several brand-new pairs of
earplugs...that's not a good sign.

After seven trips down and up the stairs to talk with the management, we decided to
check out. I lugged all eight bags down three flights of stairs to the curb and hailed a
taxi.

We found an available two-bedroom flat just a few blocks away, and for just a fraction
of the price more. What a find! It has a little kitchenette, living room, balcony, Internet,
and--best of all--a view!

Ahhhhhhh, finally. We have arrived in London!

The view of the street below from our balcony on the fifth floor.

A quick walk from our new abode to a restaurant Mir picked out called Cubana,
a Cuban restaurant. Duh. 

This place was totally killer. Mir said, "I spotted this Cuban restaurant on the corner.
Let's try it out." She's got great taste. 

The place was full of '60s and '70s pro-labor propaganda from Cuba and
classic movie posters. Great music, warm colors, and brilliant lighting. The architecture
itself was hard to place. Obviously not a standard restaurant. Someone at some point
had a vision for this spot. It was very unusual!

Merrit enjoys his water with lime, strawberry, and mint.
Oh, and that lime-green tint comes from a Vitamin C tablet
that Mir plunged into it as soon as it hit the table. Good thing
she's always watching out for us, and our germs. And everybody
else's germs.

Mir and Ollie dig in to sweet potato crisps with fresh salsa. As good as it sounds!

Bang!

Kapow!

Spicy-coconut shrimp with rice and peppers. It was called something in
Cubanese, but I can't remember the name.
We returned from dinner to find out that housekeeping had come
through and made everything just so. Ollie inspects a towel
in the shape of a swan on the edge of his bed. 

WTF?

After we put the kids to bed, Mir and I hung out in the living room. Ah, Internet
connection. So good to have you back! Look at the city lights out the window! Wow.

Tomorrow and Wednesday, we plan to spend two very full days sightseeing in London. Stay tuned.

Sunday, November 27, 2011

York Christmas Fayre

We didn't know it when we planned our York holiday for this weekend, but this is York's annual Christmas Fayre weekend. The upside: Kiddie rids, artistan crafts, booths and food vendors, street performers, and so on. The downside: Crowds.

Saturday morning:
A day in York must begin with a traditional English breakfast.
Yes, those are baked beans,

The Foss Bridge in the distance, 200 years old.
This is the River Foss.

Walking toward York Minster.

The York Minster is one of the largest Gothic churches in Europe.

Love these old fashioned Tudor-style buildings.

Mike and the boys walking through one of the four main
gates of the old city of York; this is the Bootham Bar (or gate).

We had heard from three different people in Whitley Bay to be sure and have
a traditional tea at Bennett's Tea Room, just beside the York Minster.
Mike and I shared a scone with clotted cream and strawberry jam
and a pot of tea for two. The boys ordered shortbread cookies.

We had a fantastic cup of tea at Bennett's.

Mike browsing over an encyclopedia of Lego characters.

The waitress offered to take our photo.
Obviously tourists?

We had just boarded the Original Sightseeing Tour Bus for our 50-minute
narrated tour of the city. Just in time: As it started to sprinkle. Our covered
double-decker bus was just the ticket.

Ollie and Merrit both got a chocolate coin upon our paid entrance to the
Apis Events Guild of Historic Merchants hosted at the King's Manor
in York. All the sellers were dressed in period costumes: From medieval
to Renaissance to Victorian eras. It was totally fun. (We bought some Christmas
gifts for folks back in N.C.)


Walking into Lord's Manor. What a fantastic and old building!

This man was selling hand-made wax tablets and leather pouches
and his wife was selling hand-knitted scarves, hats, and gloves.

After a light dinner at an Italian restaurant, we walked
back to our hotel. As we crossed one of the intersections
and looked down the side-streets, we saw the Minster,
all lit up at night. Wow. Phenomenal.

Sunday morning:
I've never seen anything like this: Real mini-Christmas trees
with lights all along the city streets. The little cobblestone
streets, old buildings, and stores were so charming!

Our friends Lee and Mary and their son Drew were
in York today so we hooked up with them for lunch and
to walk around a bit. 

They boys posing with a statue of Constantine
in front of York Minster.

The side entrance of York Minster is massive.
It was nine pounds to get in, so we decided to take the free
quick look-ee-loo around inside the door ... still awe inspiring.

Ollie wanted to go on a ride on the carousel.



And Merrit wanted to go on the up-and-down make-your-stomach-drop
carnival ride (that's him in the middle with his arms up).

It was dusk at 3:30 or 4:00. We wandered into The Shambles, the oldest part
of York where the buildings are all lopsided and slanted and the streets are
made of cobblestone. Not quite hungry yet, but needed to get off our feet,
we went into this pub for a pint.

Ollie and Merrit shared a bag of crisps (potato chips).
Mike and I had a locally brewed lager. This was a very cool old pub!

When we got back outside the streets were even more
deserted (nice). The Christmas-tree lights were so pretty
and we had a great time wandering around and enjoying
the cold night air, smells, and sounds.



In lieu of dinner, we decided to hit up a few of the food vendors.
Here we are at the hot roasted nuts stand.

Then we bought a pork pie, famous in York, that we had cut into four pieces
to share. (Shown: a large. We bought a small pie, which was about the size of
an egg McMuffin.) Surprisingly spicy.

I told Merrit to say, "PORK PIE!" when I took the picture.
That's what is in the bag. 
We didn't buy/eat any roasted chestnuts.
We're going to wait and do that in London.
It's so "Christmas in London," right?!

The man that has made it all happen.
Eatin' a pork pie.
It's too cold to eat out at these outdoor tables at this time of year, but how
gorgeous would this spot be to have a meal or a glass of wine?

Just a little bit lost, but enjoying every minute of it.

Walking along the River Foss at night. Gorgeous.

Last stop of the night: Plonkers Wine Bar... Mike had the
duck and hoisin wrap, I had the Thai crab cakes, and Ollie
and Merrit shared the lasagna and garlic bread.



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